Irving Cano on Trazo 1810, the new inspiration in San Miguel de Allende

Published July 3rd, 2021

Let’s take a closer look at Irving Cano, who is in charge of the kitchen at Trazo 1810, Casa 1810’s restaurant, and maybe you’ll fall more in love with the idea of traveling to San Miguel de Allende in the near future.

When talking with Irving, I was surprised by his well-structured strategy, but at the same time so “in love” (with what he does).

The Context
Throughout the centuries, our cuisine has been “very much ours”, and relatively recently, respected around the world. Today we treasure, on the one hand, regional cuisines -simple, respectful of traditional flavors and fresh ingredients- and on the other hand, the ‘signature cuisine’. This is mostly represented by chefs whose common denominator is that it is technically complex, but what is more commendable: they understand that without local and seasonal products it is impossible to stand out in this category.

This is the case of Irving Cano. He relies on inspiration to understand and enhance the products he has in this area of the Bajío, in amalgams that do not alter the flavors of each dish; he encourages his team to investigate and fantasize, resulting in a complete and surprising experience at Trazo 1810, housed in the fine and beautiful property Casa 1810.

U.S. pilot and colonel John Boyd developed O.O.D.A. Loop (1950) to understand why Americans had better results in air combat. Observe, Orient, Decide and Act. In English: Observe, Orient, Decide and Act. And Loop is “cycle”, that is, a circle that repeats and repeats. This, taken to the professional kitchen, is a win-win and reminded me of the way Irving creates his style.

The first O: Observation

“Although we have a very Mediterranean cuisine, I am concerned about rescuing recipes, ingredients, modes of preparation that have our roots. We must never lose interest in the past. As cooks it is our duty to know and rescue flavors from small communities”.

Irving Cano

“The sour atole, a soup of guides or the planting of a type of corn that a family used to make is invaluable and we must not let it get lost in the new culinary universe. As was natural, the ‘boom’ of the gastronomic schools has already passed a bit, everyone wanted to experiment, make foams, gel, etcetera, but what about knowing how to nixtamalize and make a tortilla from scratch?”

Irving Cano

Results at the Sunday brunch table
Explosion and mix of flavors with Tlaxcalan roots:

• Avocado toast
• Smoked shrimp in totomoxtle (corn husk)
• Yellow lemon and honey habanero ferment

The second O: Orientation
“There is a lot of research behind every creation at Trazo 1810, then: attitude.”

Each week the entire Trazo 1810 team participates in a reading workshop. Irving guides them to always go the extra mile. For example, they are now researching Latin American topics, as they have a project in mind to elaborate the new charter of the property.

“Suddenly something may come out that we had already researched about corn, if it can be done in such a way, it depends on the nixtamalization or the time, or the type of lime, type of corn…”.

Result at the Sunday brunch table:
The attitude was present in the French bread that they accompanied it with a chai matcha ice cream, an occurrence of the team to give it an innovative touch.

The D: Decision
The intention of Trazo 1810’s chef is to value the countryside and its background, that this is reflected in his cuisine.

“Corn will always be present, even in the dessert. We also like to be very versatile in the moles, not only in the main course but also in appetizers and desserts”.

Results at the Sunday brunch table:
Enmoladas addiciadas with raspberries and truffle oil. Surprising and great.

The A: Act
“Sunday brunch gives us all the freedom to act on everything researched and planned, to make every week a different and more fun menu. Especially when we have a guest chef. That encourages us and for the whole team it’s extraordinary.”

Results at the Sunday brunch table:
Seasonal fruit and orange granita; chilaquiles in chile morita sauce with mezcal, marrow and pancetta; braised lamb, gnocchis with echalote crumble and cheese foam.

We can only tell you that everything tasted spectacular, like the countryside, like a fresh morning in the Bajío, like parish bells, like fruits from the semi-desert, like everything you love about the land and that makes you smile when you wake up. An awakening in Casa 1810.

If you are traveling to San Miguel de Allende, the car should be just right for the trip; there is nothing like having a little extra room to stretch your legs. We recommend a pickup truck for comfort, space and more power.