The Joy of Eating In San Miguel [] San Miguel Life

Published April 14, 2022

San Miguel de Allende casts a sensuous spell: the local colors, sounds, fragrances, and tastes have long captivated visitors. When you arrive, your senses attune to the world in a new way. And the tastes—of a fresh-cut mango, papaya dripping in lime juice, aromatic café de olla brewed with cinnamon, the slightly smoky richness of enchiladas del portal, the peculiar soft acidity of a xoconostle fruit—enliven the palate. San Miguel has long provided culinary surprise and delight, though today, one could start the day with a traditional plate of tangy, creamy chilaquiles and end it with a 15-course Japanese omakase.

There are at least 300 restaurants, cafés, and bars in San Miguel and they offer everything from falafel to burgers to coq au vin to ceviche. There is also a vibrant and beloved street-food scene: “Mexico has one of the best street food cultures in Latin America and San Miguel is no exception. You meet the most interesting people when you eat on the street here; a food or language lesson is often had for the price of a couple tacos,” says Susan Knight York, a food writer, and photographer who has been living in San Miguel since 2013. “The food scene here drastically changed in 2016 -2017 when over 40 restaurants opened in SMA,” she explains. “Two important things changed in 2017: with a whole new category of fine-casual dining spots emerging, locals were dining out more often. Restaurant owners were also making important changes to improve the quality and consistency of the guest experience.”

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