From Rostock to San Miguel via Acapulco [] David Jahnke

Published January 26th, 2022

by Natalie Taylor

David Jahnke is a well-known and beloved chef in San Miguel, but few know his personal story and his reasons for being here. He was born in Rostock, in what was at the time East Germany, and grew up with his grandparents on a large tract of land with a garden, an orchard, geese, and chickens. From a young age, David learned how to grow vegetables, pick cherries, and make conserves and pickles. His grandmother taught him all those processes and he came to appreciate the wonderful flavors of food made with fresh vegetables just picked in the garden.

Because of the Communist regime during his early childhood, food and resources were scarce and most families only had “warm food” for the mid-day meal. But his grandmother always cooked dinner for the entire family. He remembers that in his class of 33 kids, he was known as the only one who had “warm food for dinner”! These early experiences with his grandmother created a love for food and he knew he wanted to be a chef when he grew up. In elementary school, the teacher asked everyone to name two things they might want to become. David said “chef or veterinarian,” the latter because of his love of animals.

When the Berlin wall fell in 1989, David was 12, and suddenly the world changed. The doors of the world were thrown open and one could travel without restrictions. Shortly after, he decided to go to Timmendorf Strand, a touristy beach town along the Baltic Sea. He studied gastronomy and by age 18 had a culinary government certificate. He entered and won numerous food competitions; a first prize in his school, then regional, and eventually a fourth place in the country in a national competition. He was hired at the prestigious Dom Hotel in Cologne, next to the famous cathedral, and spent almost two years there.

But his wanderlust had been awakened and he wanted to travel, not just nearby, but somewhere exotic, so he chose Acapulco, Mexico. Here, he was offered a job at the Boca Chica Hotel, owned by the Muñoz family, a renowned hotel on the beach. Over the next twelve years, he gained experience in haute cuisine serving not only the guests at the hotel but was often called on to cater on many of the yachts that docked in the harbor. The menu was international and consisted of fresh seafood. But around 2007, the conditions in Acapulco became dangerous because of the many cartels and open fighting. Tourism dwindled and the hotel was sold to a big enterprise. Although David was offered a position, he declined, choosing to remain connected to the Muñoz family.

When Miguel Muñoz took a position as manager of an organic ranch in Jalpa—just outside San Miguel de Allende, David decide to check out the area himself. He found San Miguel safe and he loved all the art and culture. The two of them started La Isla at Mercado Sano, providing fresh seafood and produce, then moved it to the weekly tianguis—fresh market, and the project grew. During this time David was also teaching gastronomy, nutrition, and tourism at the university in Celaya. This stint in academia afforded him opportunities to travel and teach not only throughout Mexico but also in Europe.

He participated in writing two books about superior education strategies; collaborated with students from the University of Celaya, and nonprofit organizations to improve the quality of hospital meals. He has, and continues to support children with disabilities or cancer, and has worked with associations of Mexican farmers.

In 2011 David met Amy, who is a certified masseuse. She is originally from Nayarit but had come to San Miguel to join her sister. They have been together ever since then and have a seven-year-old daughter, Itzayana—Mayan for “gift of God.” Tragically, they lost their second daughter four years ago. Only a few months ago their third daughter was born; her name is Yatzil—“the beloved.”

David had done many cooking classes at his home but they had to be discontinued because of Covid. But he has continued offering classes online that have kept him extremely busy. He also offers special, unique periodic tours such as mushroom foraging, and these are very popular. Some are sold out within hours. And most of all, he continues to support non-profit organizations in the city by donating his time to do classes.

Natalie Taylor: BA in English Lit and Journalism, Loyola University, Chicago, 1995. MFA in Creative Writing, Vermont College, Montpelier, VT, 1999. Published writer, editor, journalist. Spanish teacher in the US, English teacher in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Translator. www.natalietaylor.org Contact: tangonata@gmail.com