Women in mezcal industry buck male tradition

Published March 17, 2023

Having documented the world of agave spirits for the last decade, I have seen some significant shifts and developments. A highlight is the growing confidence and presence of women in the industry.

In December, Oaxaca city hosted a new kind of mezcal festival, called Mujer Agave — an event in which women in the agave spirits industry came together to share their work, experience and passion.

The three women running it — Sandra Ortiz Brena, Silvia Philion and mezcalera Graciela Ángeles — have forged a path for other women working with mezcal: Ortiz and Philion run two of the best-known bars in Oaxaca, InSitu and Mezcaloteca respectively. Ángeles carries the torch for the prestigious brand Real Minero. She is often described as a woman leading the way in the agave spirits industry.

Ángeles’ strength and skills have won her fame from the earliest days of the international mezcal “boom.” Other mezcaleras whose names are always at the tip of the tongue when discussing “women in mezcal” in Mexico include Reyna Sánchez and Berta Vásquez.

These women have been bold, making a name for themselves in a predominantly masculine field. Until recently, however, it felt like they were the exception to the rule, a novelty rather than people in an accepted position of equality.

Fortunately, in the last few years, more and more women are finding their place in the mezcal industry, running bars and brands and heading production.

Read more […]