Sombra de Arum: Restaurant Review by Susan Knight York

Published October 18, 2024

by Susan Knight York

Sombra de Arum is one of our new go-to spots and if you’re wondering why everything is this good this soon, it’s because Sombra has one of the best management teams in the business; all of them hardworking and passionate. It’s been a total work in progress but then, so were they…

Sebastian Acosta Quiroz is a Chilean born sommelier turned business executive and is considered an ace in the management and operations of all things gastronomy and hotels. He previously worked for Hotel Matilda, Aperi, Dos Casas, Cumpanio, Casa de Los Olivos, Jacinto and Panio; and that’s just in SMA. His mentors include the numero uno at Matilda, Bruce James and Chef Matteo Salas.

Mike Espinoza is a master Mixologist that has been behind the bar since he was 16 years old; no surprise for someone with over 33 years of experience in the art and science of the drink. He’s been a finalist in national and international competitions and places in the top three. Mike has developed new, clarified cocktails for Sombra; a process that removes impurities to create crystal-clear, ultra-smooth drinks with both addictive and amplified flavors. The Owner and Director of Tobala Mixology since 2019, Mike Espinoza has been a brand ambassador for several Mexican companies. A true lover of Tequila and Mezcal, he also teaches conferences at Barra Mexico, Latin America’s premier bar show. He’s one of the top Mixology consultants in SMA, frequently working with his wife, Rachel Dawit, who previously worked for Casa Dragones and is now in charge of Sales and PR at Tobala.

We do dessert first and after one sip of the Marshmallow Espresso Martini I was in and I’m a hard sell, especially when it comes to cocktails. When we ordered a Mezcal melón with Mezcal creyente cristalino, green melón shrub with apple vinegar, chamomile and melon pearls in brine, I honestly thought it was a Margarita; a really good one. Both drinks have landed on my list of new favorites.

Sombra owners, Justin Brown and Meredith Davis, hail from Austin, Texas, which was voted the best city in the USA for nightlife. They knew that SMA’s vibrant bar scene was missing something special- a top-notch restaurant – so they hired Gabriel Ordonez, one of San Miguel’s best private chefs to head up Sombra’s kitchen.

With more than 15 years of professional experience, Chef Gabriel Ordonez has worked alongside some of the world’s most respected chefs including Virgilio Martinez of Central and Pedro Miguel Schiaffino of Malabar in their internationally recognized kitchens in Lima, Peru. After consuming 17 courses of Peruvian elevations, the tasting menu I experienced at Central was the best I’ve had anywhere in the world. Gabriel’s path has extended to collaborations with guest chef appearances at San Miguel de Allende food festivals, partnerships with the Rosewood hotel and notable dinners with Casa Dragones Tequila. He’s also an avid culinary educator.

We love Gabriel’s offerings at Sombra because they’re different; not the same menu you see everywhere else in town. The Potato Mille-Feuille (possibly the best potato dish we’ve eaten) with Veal Tartar: Cornichon, cured egg yolk, truffle aioli and pickled mustard seeds and the Barbacoa Croquettes with Cauliflower purée, chives, aged manchego and macha oil; both dishes uniquely Gabriel. He’s always been famous for his hamburgers and his burger blend at a pop up back in 2019 ruled supreme in SMA for a very long time. The new one at Sombra is his best burger yet using Truffle aioli, caramelized onion and blue cheese. The brioche bun is heavenly and so light, it’s like biting into a cloud. I guarantee you’ll never taste another bun quite like this one, compliments of Santo Pan.

When you sink into one of Sombra’s oversized chairs, what are the chances you’ll be coming up for air anytime soon? The decor at Sombra is simple yet chic and surprisingly comfortable. The service was also spectacular.
Over five weeks ago, I started posting pictures on my Facebook and Instagram stories that eventually led up to this post. Lots of love, research and tasting go into everyone so if you’re looking for the best in both state-of-the-art cuisine and cocktails, Sombra de Arum is your place.

We really like the talented team that put Sombra all together and hope they’ll continue to find new ways to introduce SMA to high quality food and spirits. They definitely hit the jackpot with this one!

Sombra de Arum
Salida Real a Queretaro 101 A
Monday – Wednesday 2:00 PM – 10:00 PM
Thursday – Saturday2:00 PM – 12:00 AM
Sunday 11:00 PM – 5:00 PM
Chef: Gabriel Ordonez
Mixology Master: Mike Espinoza
Parking: Salida Real a Queretaro 117
$25MXN per hour