The ‘magical city’ at the heart of Mexico, San Miguel de Allende thrives on art and stunning vistas

‘February through April, the purple Jacarandas bloom. The beauty is mind-blowing,’ — Jennifer Susan Manning

Published December 23, 2022

My first day in San Miguel de Allende, I awoke to bells ringing at Santo Domingo Church a short distance down the hill. Fortunately, there was scant need to know the time nor heed current events in this ancient colonial city.

Its year-round, sunny and crisp weather routinely touches 70 degrees with only occasional bursts of rain. Magenta-hued bougainvillea vines clamber over stone walls and drape antique cedar doors. Everyone smiled to greet me: “Buenos días.” A blissful timelessness characterizes this Magical City, founded in 1542 and often referred to as the heart of Mexico.

After taking two connecting flights from New Orleans to Dallas and then to Leon, Mexico, and a 90 minutes shuttle, eating only pretzel snacks, I was ready to devour some authentic Mexican food.

I had made arrangements to stay with a friend, Gail Perry, who intends to live half-time in San Miguel, joining its legion of expats. We ambled down several blocks to dine at the popular rooftop restaurant El Pegaso. I was later to learn San Miguel’s hilly terrain resulted from volcanic eruption 10,000 years ago, providing rich agricultural soil and hard rock for cobblestone streets and 12 types of limestone.

To take the edge off, I quickly ordered a spicy Mezcalita cocktail made with Mezcal, pineapple and lime juices, Serrano pepper, garlic and tomato with tamarind along the rim.

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