Atole: beverage of champions

Published January 4, 2022

Since pre-Hispanic times, this hot, corn-based drink has fueled runners and delighted the masses

By Janet Blaser

The first time I encountered atole was in the days between Christmas and New Year’s, at a stand outside a busy department store in Mazatlán where I’d gone with a local friend to exchange a gift. She was in a hurry; I lingered by the door, watching the vendor ladle the steaming hot something into cups and hand them to appreciative customers. “What is that? I want some!” I wailed as she bundled me into the store and onto the elevator.

Good friend that she is, on the way out, we stopped and she explained about the delicious beverage we were about to try. I’ve never forgotten that first, wonderful taste of atole and what a satisfying drink it is for a chilly winter’s evening.

Since then, I’ve learned much about this ancient pre-Hispanic beverage. The simplest description is that it’s a thick, hot, corn-based drink, sweetened and flavored with everything from cinnamon or vanilla to guava, almonds or citrus zest. (Chocolate atole has its own name: champurrado.) “Corn” as in masa harina, nixtamalized ground dried field corn that’s the basis of tortillas, gorditas, etc.

Popular in many Central American countries, in Mexico you’ll find atole in different flavors specific to different regions, running the gamut from sweet to savory. For example, in Oaxaca, Veracruz and Michoacán, chileatole, a spicy-savory version made with chile and epazote, is common. In northern Mexico, the famed Tarahumara — known all over the world for amazing long-distance runners — have used masa-based, energy-filled pinole as a staple in their diet for thousands of years.

We’re lucky that nowadays we don’t have to grind dried corn; using masa harina para tortillas will yield a fine atole. Do avoid recipes with cornstarch; the result, while admittedly delicious, will not have the same thick consistency that’s part of atole’s charm. (That said, there’s nothing wrong with keeping a few packets of Maizena corn starch in your cupboard for a quick atole-like fix!)

A molinillo can be found in most local mercados.

Another fun part of atole is using a traditional wooden molinillo to froth the drink just before serving. My guess is you’ve seen these in your local mercado and didn’t quite know what they were for; or if you did, I bet you’ve never used one.

They come in all sorts of interesting sizes and designs, and while a wire whisk works just as well, a molinillo is a lot more fun!

Recipes […]